Nikolaihof

Shame on me!  Here we are almost seven months into our adventures on The Grapes of Rand, and to date I haven't highlighted a single producer from my native land.  How could I have committed such an egregious offense towards a country brimming with viticultural history and renown, and one which produces wines that have of late become one of the darlings of trendy sommeliers the world over?  The omission becomes even more glaring considering the abundance of naturally, and particularly high quality Biodynamic wine produced there.  If you haven't guessed yet I am talking about Austria, a country blessed with, if nothing else, the most sublimely stunning vineyard landscapes anywhere in Winedom.

Well, my failings are about to be redressed as we profile not just Austria's foremost Biodynamic winemaker, but one of the first ever Demeter certified Biodynamic vineyards anywhere in the world, and producer of wines that Wine & Spirits Buying Guide has classed among the world's top 100.  Wine & Spirits described Nikolaihof's Im Weingebirge Grüner Veltliner Federspiel this way:  "Discreet, complex, the essence of a place built on stones, smoky flint and gorgeous dry white fruit.  The length of flavor is joyous, captivating as a sweet lied sung in an Alpine meadow."  Indeed, the great Austrian lieder smith Franz Schubert might well have been inspired by the wines of the Nikolaihof estate, as might Mozart's Viennese contemporaries, and many generations of Austrians before them.  In fact, the history of viticulture in the area of Nikolaihof goes way back, and I mean WAY back to the time when the Celts inhabited the shores of the Danube.  The earliest recorded wine growing reference is during the Roman era around 470 A.D.  Nikolaihof, referred to in a document back in 1075 as the central administrative seat of the St Nikola monastery of Passau, may well be Austria's oldest wine estate.  Built atop and old Roman fortress (the cellar is actually constructed in a Roman crypt), today's Nikolaihof includes elements that date back to the fifteenth century, including the restored, deconsecrated monastery chapel under whose Gothic vaulting proprietors Christine and Nikoloaus Saahs receive their guests at wine tastings and receptions.

Nikolaihof's vines are planted on 20 hectares of mineral-rich, steep-sloped, sunny terraces of granite, gneiss, and mica in the breathtakingly beautiful Wachau valley bordering the Danube river.  Very small yields ensure absolute top quality.  Harvesting is carried out only by hand, ensuring that grapes are always at the optimal peak of ripeness.

In the cellar no additives or other treatments are allowed to interfere with the grapes' natural processes.  Only naturally occurring yeasts do their magic to transform the must into wine in a huge wooden vat without the aid of temperature control or computer-calculated fermentation techniques.  I love when winemakers exercise this kind of faith in the processes of nature.  It shows me that they know without a doubt that they have grown healthy, vibrant fruit that will allow its robust genetic material to dictate the kind of wine it becomes. The Saahs' ultimate aim is "to get as much power and energy as possible into the wines whilst interfering with nature as little as possible."  Judging by the accolades their wines receive time and again I think they may be on to something.  The folks at Wine & Spirits aren't the only ones impressed by the power and finesse of Nikolaihof's wines.  The 1990 Riesling Vinothek was judged the best Austrian dry white wine on the American market by the Beverage Tasting Institute, which also scored the 2002 Im Weingebirge Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 90/100 points.  The Grapes of Rand will very shortly put in its two cents worth (something I look forward to just a litte), so stay tuned.

One interesting marketing angle Nikolaihof employs, and to my knowledge the only winery in the world to do so quite so openly, is to proclaim their wines the 'healthiest wine in the world.'  The Saahs believe firmly that by using only natural nutrients, maintaining the health of the soil, and strictly following all other Biodynamic practices, their wines retain natural substances which strengthen the body's defenses against ageing, allergies, heart and circulatory diseases, cancer, and many other diseases.  They back these assertions by touting tests by The German Society for Environmental and Human Toxology (DGUHT) that demonstrate the relative stress level of a wine within the parameter of pH value, redox potential, and conductivity.  In DGUHT's tests Nikolaihof Vom Stein Riesling Federspiel comes out as the world's healthiest wine according to these criteria.  Wine, according to the Nikolaihof philosophy is considered both a nourishing foodstuff and a medicine and it is therefore incumbent upon the winemaker to keep it free of unnecessary toxic and chemical residues.  Another interesting side note for you wine headache sufferers is that according to the Austrian Federal Office for Wine and Fruit Producers, Nikolaihof wines do not contain the headache-inducing histamines found in most other wines.  Well Louis Pasteur, maybe you were right after all, maybe wine is indeed the most healthful of all beverages.

Nikolaihof produces a range of dry Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings, an off-dry Frühroter Veltliner, a Chardonnay, an interesting blend of Riesling, GV, Pinot Blanc, and Neuburger (dry), and a range of ageworthy sweet GV's and Rieslings.

Traveling to Austria, and jonesin' for a little wine tasting adventure?  Well, you'll be glad to know that Nikolaihof's tavern will welcome you April 21st through the middle of November.  The tavern serves primarily organic food sourced from local farmers, and bread is baked fresh on premise.  And if you want to spend a few days relaxing in the tranquility of the Wachau, Nikolaihof's 19 room Ad Vineas guesthouse is ready to accommodate the road-weary wine lover with its soothing 4-star atmosphere, including the beautifully landscaped gardens and swimming pond.  For a more rustic wine tasting experience, don't forget to visit the area's traditional 'Heurigen' wine gardens.

Interested in sampling the tremendous wines from Nikolaihof, but can't find them?  Never fear, have I got the link for you!
Chambers Street Wines

AmByth Estate

I love when I come across a wine producer who does everything right, in my humble opinion.  Just readying AmByth's description of their vineyard on their website got me pretty excited:  Biodynamic, Dry Farmed, Head Trained, Steep Hillsides, Organic.  Having experienced the mind-blowing complex and heavenly Olive Oils from AmByth Estate on my last trip to the California Central Coast, I know I had to investigate this wonderful Paso Robles producer further.

As I did my research for information I could pass on to you my fellow natural wine lovers, I came across a very informative article that nicely summarizes of AmByth Estates is all about, with much more in-depth information that I had access to.  So with your indulgence I will re-post that article here for your reading enjoyment.




But first a few other highlights about AmByth that get me excited.

1.  Climate-appropriate varietals including Mourvedre, Grenache, Syrah, Counoise, Tempranillo, Sangiovese,    Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, & Grenache Blanc
2.  No fining or filtering
3.  Several wines with NO added sulfites
4.  Low alcohol - none over 13.5% (unusual for Paso Robles)
5.  Indigenous yeasts only as required by Biodynamic wine making practices
6.  Whole cluster fermentation, stems and all
7.  Real involvement in the work of the vineyard - no outside labor for harvest
8.  Stay-small philosophy
9.  A great blog that lets you follow AmByth's activities throughout the year
10.  A great welsh name that means 'forever' and bespeaks the enduring ties the owners feel towards their property and chosen life, as well as their land in a state of health for future generations

Ambyth Wine Estate: Nuts For Natural Wine
Josh Petray

(Re-posted from VinoPasoRobles.com Fall 2011)

Ambyth Wine Estate crafts fine biodynamic wines out of Templeton Gap

Biodynamic pioneers Mary and Phillip Hart’s Templeton hilltop estate originally planted with vineyards in 2004 has become more of a farm. For the owners, it’s a lifestyle choice. And a healthy one at that, they said.

The Harts, owners of Paso Robles American Viticultural Area’s only certified biodynamic/organic vineyard and winery, say they never undertook the niche certification for the money or the marketing boost it would provide in a culture arguably intrigued with sustainable buzzwords like biodynamic and organic, but their wines happen to be both.

Witnessing the growth of the vines and evolution of farming practices on their estate — situated in the Templeton Gap and cooled by Pacific coastal breezes — is part of what characterizes the “new ancient,” as Phillip coined it, for Ambyth Estate Wines.

“Huge,” Phillip said as he stood perched looking at the two cows mowing weeds on the estate vines in response to the question: How has the growth been on the vineyard since it was planted?

The vines — stronger. Grape clusters — more organized. From a wine-growing perspective, advancement as one could hope, according to Phillip.

Sixty-five apple and pear trees, more than 60 fruit and nut trees and eight beehives adorn the property. Chickens bear eggs that the family eats. Two sheep that roamed the property, fertilizing it, are now in the freezer, awaiting an epicurean twist. Rabbits are reared for weed-eating and eventual consumption.

“We’re not just a vineyard,” he said. “We have become much more of a farm.”

The couple’s love of the land is visible at every step of the way at Ambyth Estate. Olive-oil lovers have been known to make the trek all the way to Ambyth to pick up what Phillip described as fine an olive oil as one can get. Five-hundred-and-forty olive trees adorn the property, producing a two-and-a-half-ton harvest last year.

In addition to the dry-farmed olives, the Harts make their own honey from beehives situated throughout the Templeton property.

“That was outstanding — just to have our own extra virgin olive oil,” Phillip said. “In my opinion, it’s as fine of an olive oil as you can find on this planet. It is purchased by people just the same as honey — it’s just good stuff. Here, right out of the winery.”

He’s quick to point out that whole farming/biodynamic component wasn’t necessarily in the couple’s master plan. It was just “the path that just keeps opening up.”

“When I think by being biodynamic, the path has opened up more because it does tend to make you read more to understand what you’re doing,” he said.

What follows is a learn-and-dothrough- reading approach that’s allowed him to see what others have done successfully on their properties, and then emulate it.

“There’s a gas that apples give off that’s great for all other growing plants,” he said, offering up a theoretical example. “You go, ‘Ooh, I have a west fence that the breeze comes through every day — that would be a great idea.’ That kind of stuff. Really, that’s how it happens.”

“It was never a marketing plan,” he said. “It was a choice of a way of life, but there seems to be a nice peripheral sides that go with that.”

In fact, the proprietor and Persian rug aficionado said he’s not heavy on the whole certification side of things. Although Ambyth carries the heavy organic and biodynamic certifications, it blends in nicely with the natural approach already being undertaken at the farm.

Despite any preconceptions about the mysticism steeped in biodynamic farming, Hart professes that biodynamic pioneer Rudolf Steiner “is no guru,” nor a “prophet,” simply someone who took information from the past and spoke about it in a way that people could understand intellectually and move forward.

“It’s not a mystical way of farming — it’s actually an old-fashioned way of farming,” he said.

The “natural way” of farming biodynamically appeals to Mary, too.

“It’s a safe environment that we’ve created here on our property, not only for our family but for our animals, any beneficial predators or insects that we have. Visitors, if people come and eat at my table they’re going to get food that is healthy and clean for their bodies, and wine as well,” she said.

At Ambyth, Phillip handles the vineyard and winery. Mary takes charge of the gardens, fruit and nut trees, small animals.

“We’re trying to create a closed system,” Mary said. “Things just keep going — it’s circular.”

That’s not to say that biodynamism isn’t something that’s misunderstood by the vast majority of farmers and wine enthusiasts.

“Some people are wide open to it, and of course as with everything else in life, other people are absolutely closed shut, and that’s fine, I don’t have a problem with it,” Hart said.

According to the Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association, the movement laid its roots in the 1920s with a group of practicing farmers who were concerned with the decline in the health of soils, plants and animals, and sought the advice of Steiner, founder of anthroposophy. The movement embraces a “unified approach to agriculture that relates the ecology of the farm-organism to that of the entire cosmos,” according to the group.

It’s an approach, from the preps to the harvest that the Harts believe in. From planting the vines to making the wines, all facets of winemaking occur onsite at their estate.

Among natural approaches, the Harts do not fine or filter and use only native yeasts. Lower alcohol level wines are sought after.

“Take a look at the property,” Phillip said, offering evidence of the success of biodynamism. “Look at the vines.”

Wines harvested from Ambyth vines are oftentimes described as “interesting,” said Phillip. That — and they’re “very pleasing.”

“I typically hear that they’re all different,” he said. “I think that’s what you get when you go this way. The question of do I really believe in it? Well, it’s self-evident.”

Just this year, the couple purchased quartz from an exclusive New York distributor to be buried in the vineyard, among other prep work undertaken.

Varietals grown on the property include grenache, grenache blanc, mourvedre, syrah, viognier, Rousanne and Cuonoise.

Last year’s vineyard crop was good, in part due to the rain, according to Phillip. This year, the couple has decided to take a step back and sell about half the fruit in order to take a breath and tend to some of the other things around the farm.

Hart comfortably described the zero growth statistic in sales for Ambyth wines in 2010 from the year prior, which he described as “pathetic,” and “a horrible year business-wise.”

“You should have growth in those early years,” he said, adding, “This year we’re on target for where I thought we were last.”

People do travel the beaten path to seek out Ambyth, the couple said. For Mary and Phillip, it’s always kind of fun to see visitors seek out their estate-grown wines, from places near and far. They’ve grown to learn just how many natural wine enthusiasts there are out there. Though limited (and admittedly not providing an exciting business climate due to its limited range), they’re a dedicated bunch that will single Ambyth out for a taste of something distinct and different.

“I didn’t quite realize how many biodynamic wine nuts there were out there,” Phillip said. “Natural wine nuts — and I say that in a friendly way because I’m a natural wine nut.”

Antiyal: Pioneering Biodynamic Wine of Chile

Antiyal:  Mapudungun (language of Chile's native Mapuche) for "sons of the sun."  Antiyal was founded in 1996 by winemaker Alvaro Espinoza and his wife Marina Ashton with the idea of teaching their children and anyone else who would listen, about the Earth, work, and wine.  Soon this little family vineyard project blossomed into a full-on 19,000 bottle a year winery with wines garnering rave reviews.  So much for a small family vineyard project.  Alvaro Espinoza is a highly regarded winemaker in Chile.  Considered a pioneer in Biodynamic and Organic farming, he is still very much in demand among other wine makers for his grape growing and wine making knowledge, leaving Marina to guide the winery's day-to-day operations.

Often referred to as the original 'garage winery' in Chile, Antiyal is now a modest-sized winery that prides itself on it's high quality standards.  Antiyal and it's sister brand Kuyen (moon in Mapudungun) are apt monikers for these Biodynamically produced wines, evoking the ancient Mapuche civilization's respect for the Earth and its ties to the cosmos.  Alvaro's vineyards embody these ancient principles of respect for nature through planting of flowers (lots of Poppies...my favorite) between rows of vines to attract beneficial insects, and chickens scratching the soil to get rid of bad ones such as mites.  This respect also extends to vineyard work being done by horse-drawn plows cultivating the soil instead of tractor-mounted equipment.  In accordance with Biodynamic practices, harvest and training of vines is timed to the rhythm of the moon and stars.  Alvaro employs organic and Biodynamic methods because he belives they lend his wines more genuine flavors with a stronger sense of place.  Apart from this commitment to quality he wants to leave his vineyards in better shape for future generations.

Alvaro believes in 'planting vigor row by row' by using very little irrigation or canopy management.  Organic farm-produced composts and manures provide nutrition to a healthy, balance vineyard.  Of course, Antiyal's vineyards have the enviable advantage of being located in the Maipo valley, with its almost rain-free conditions, requiring little or no spraying of systemic chemicals.  I have always thought that South America has somewhat of an unfair advantage in that area, but it is an advantage that should be welcome and exploited by far more Chilean and Argentinian producers.  What little water that is used in irrigation consists of pure snow-melt form the Andes mountains, contributing another advantage to the quality of Antiyal's grapes.  Furthermore, the Humboldt Current-influenced climate provides cool temperatures both morning and night, ensuring that the grapes retain their natural acidity, yielding rich, mature fruit that doesn't devolve to flabby jamminess.

Wines produced and accolades:

Antiyal is a blend of Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.  Stephen Tanzer awarded the 2007 vintage of this wine 92+ points, pointing out its perfumed aromas of blackberry and cherry preserves and smoky herbs, complemented by cracked pepper, cinnamon, and a kiss of candied flowers.

The same vintage of Kuyen, a blend of Syrah and Cabernet, received 91 points from Tanzer, showing dark berry flavors complemented by subtle spicy oak, licorice, and zesty minerality.

Grgich Hills Estate

Anyone familiar with Bottle Shock, the movie loosely based on the events of Steven Spurrier's 1976 Judgment of Paris, will know the central story focusing on the Jim and Bo Barrett father-son relationship as they overcame all odds to shock the world with the highest scoring wine at the historic tasting.  What those more familiar with the movie than the actual events may not know, is that the winemaker responsible for creating the winning wine (1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay), was actually Mike Grgich, founder of Grgich Hills Estates.  Part of the reason for the omission of the winemaker in the plot was, as the story goes, that Grgich did not fully support the project, and producers were not able to obtain his life rights.  Mike Grgich did, however, appear as an extra in the move.  Be that as it may, those familiar with the revered Napa Valley producer Grgich Hills Estate know that the Croatian born Miljenko Grgich went on to form his own wine legacy.  Only a year after the 1976 Paris tasting, Grgich teamed up with Austin Hills of Hills Bros. Coffee, to create Grgich Hills.  Their aim was to produce the highest quality wines from vineyards owned by Austin Hills in Rutherford, Napa Valley.  While Hills handled the business side of things, Mike Grgich went to work creating world-class wines, including the exquisite complex Chardonnays Grgich Hills is famous for.  As a side-note (returning briefly to Bottle Shock), Gustavo Brambila (played by Freddy Rodriguez in the movie) actually followed Grgich when he left Chateau Montelena and worked for him for many years until in 1999 he started his own Napa winery, Gustavo Thrace.

With his fabled wine-making history and ideally situated Napa vineyards, Grgich could have easily focused on  growth and expansion, but instead has decided to stay relatively small and put the emphasis on continuing quality improvement in vineyard and winery.  Central to Grgich's philosophy is that 'great wine always begins with exceptional fruit.' As part of that commitment, all of Grgich Hills' grapes are 100% estate grown in their organic and Biodynamic certified vineyards.  The 366 acres of vineyards spread through Rutherford, Carneros, Yountville, Calistoga, and American Canyon.  From these vineyards Grgich produces their celebrated Chardonnay, Fume Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, and a dessert wine named after Mike Grgich's daughter Violetta.

What I find interesting about Grgich's road to Biodynamic farming is that, as is the case with many other producers, the switch to Biodynamics grew out of crisis.  This seems to be a recurring theme in the history of Biodynamic farming, as Rodolf Steiner's movement itself was a response to a serious 1920's agricultural plight in Europe, the result of overuse of chemical fertilizers.  In 2003 44 year old Cabernet Sauvignon Vines in Grgich's Yountville Vineyards were badly infected with red leaf virus, and experts recommended that they be pulled out.  In a desperate attempt to save the vines, the decision was made to make the swithch to Biodynamic farming.  Not only did the vines recover, but the quality of fruit improved to such an extent, that Grgich Hills decided to convert all 366 acres of their vineyards to Biodynamic methods.  By 2006 the conversion was complete, and all the vineyards are now certified Biodynamic by Demeter.  Sometimes, I must admit, even I an ardent proponent of Biodynamics, amid frequent criticism of some of the more mystical elements, forget what solid practical footing underpins its practices.  It is always nice to see a producer provide clearly stated, down-to earth information about what Biodynamics entails in their vineyard work.  Grgich Hills has created a very useful and concise list of some of the main elements of Biodynamics and how it differs form organic practices.  I thought is might be useful to reproduce this list here for our edification:



KEY DIFFERENCES BETWEEN NOP ORGANIC* AND DEMETER BIODYNAMIC®

History
-National Organic Program (NOP) established in US in 2002
-Demeter established in Europe in 1928, and in the US in 1985

Use of imported materials
-NOP permits imported organic fertilizers and pesticides
-Biodynamic reduces imported materials by addressing its needs from within the farming system

Fertility delivered via a nutrient rich soil component, called humus, created by the:
-Integration of livestock
-Intensive use of green manure (cover crops grown to add nutrients to soil) and legumes
-Rotation of crops
-Application of field/compost sprays

Pest and Disease Control
-Creation of biologically diverse habitat encourages balanced predator prey relationships
-Humus development contributes to insect and disease resistance
Water:
-Increased humus levels result in soil’s ability to store water
-Preservation of riparian areas emphasized

Livestock feed source
-NOP allows for organic feed imported to the farm from anywhere in the world
-Biodynamic requires 80% of livestock feed be grown on farm.
Biodiversity requirements
-No specific NOP requirement
-Biodynamic requires a biodiversity set- aside of ten percent of the total farm acreage

Farm certification
-NOP is crop focused and allows for a designated parcel to be certified
-Biodynamic is farm focused and requires that the whole farm be certified

Product certification
-NOP processing standard is applied across product types and focuses primarily on ingredients used
-12 Biodynamic processing standards, developed for specific product types, require minimal manipulation so that the
agricultural ingredients used define the product

I don't know if it is that Biodynamic producers just develop an intuitive trust in the power of the sun because of the wonderful results they see it produce in their fruit, but Grgich Hills Estate, like many other Biodynamic producers, has taken its earth-friendly production practices outside of the vineyard, using the sun's energy to supply almost 100% of its electrical needs.  860 photovoltaic panels covering the winery's red tile roof provide a renewable, pollutant-free energy source in line with Gergich's overall philosophy of sustainablility.  

Seeing wine producers do everything in their power to produce wines in a natural, sustainable, earth-friendly way is always encouraging.  But in the end the quality of the wine must, of course, be the ultimate measure of success.  Judging by the many accolades Grgich Hills Estate wines have garnered over the years, and continue to garner today, I would say they are doing a pretty good job of measuring up.  Below are just a few of the high scores and other honors some of Grgich's wines have collected for their recent vintages:  

2007, 2008 Chardonnay - Stephen Tanzer  90 points

2007 Chardonnay served at the White House executive residence

2007 Carneros Selection Chardonnay - Tasting Panel  94 points

2008 Zinfandel - Wine & Spirits  91 points

2005 Miljenko's Old Vine Zinfandel - Wine News (wine of the year)  95 points

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon - Michael Apstein  96 points

2006, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon - Robert Whitley  96 points

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yountville Selection - Wine News  94 points

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - Wine Spectator  92 points

2008 Violetta late harvest - Wine Spectator 90 points

Grgich Hills Estate  (link)

* Some information about the movie Bottle Shock was sourced from WineCountry.com.  

Cowhorn Vineyards

Could there be a more idyllic setting for a vineyard than this?  I think not.  If there are two things I'm a sucker for it's a great undiscovered wine region discovered, and great wines that come from them; wines that are unique and real and speak of the land, the soil, and the people who grow and make them.  So when I discovered that there is actually more to Oregon wine than Willamette Valley and the great Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay grown there, and that it involves the beautifully rugged southern Oregon Rogue and  Applegate valleys, I was naturally excited.  When I found out that really, really good naturally produced Rhone varietals and Rhone blends are produced there, I knew I had found a new Nirvana.  

So, where will my next wine excursion take me?  Yes, you guessed it...southern Oregon, and my first stop will be Cowhorn Vineyards, an amazing Demter certified Biodynamic producer in Appleagate valley.  What makes this incredible little corner of the Pacific Northwest so perfect for wine growing, and my next wine trip?  First of all, beautiful mountains, forests, rivers,  and scenery to provide the perfect backdrop.  Second, a great hospitality scene with world class cuisine, entertainment, and charming bed and breakfasts.  And, most importantly, ideal grape-growing conditions for an amazing array of  both cool and warm climate varietals.

Cowhorn Vineyards is located about as far south as the incredible southern Oregon countryside extends, in a ralatively dry climate zone with warm days and cool nights, creating the perfect conditions in which to grow the classic Rhone varietals Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne, as well as some wonderful warm climate Sauvignon Blanc.

Bill and Barbara Steele purchased the property that is now Cowhorn Vineyards in 2002, extensively tested the soil, water-holding capacity, and natural water availability, and by 2004 had put together a masterplan for their polyculture gardens and vineyards, relying on Biodynamic and Organic practices, which now includes farming of asparagus and an array of other crops such as artichokes, pumpkins, squash, apples, pears, and hazelnuts.  I love the first vision statement the Steeles wrote for Cowhorn from which their dreams and plans grew.

"There must be a Creator and she loves art!  Why else would the Earth be so beautiful? The Earth is also powerful and diverse; complicated, forgiving and patient; wise.  She buries our mistakes, grows our successes; endlessly challenges our creativity and ability, always rewards us with vision and beauty! The extraordinary intellect of the mind is matched by the extraordinary complexity of the Earth. We can protect the Earth by creating spaces that let its energies expand and flourish. The Earth needs strong spaces to balance those parts that have been weakened."

I love this statement because it speaks of the respect the Steeles have for the Earth and its creative powers, and of the importance of working together with her as her stewards.  This philosophy is put into practice in Cowhorn's vineyards in the form of Biodynamically based, labor-intensive tillage and canopy management programs, providing an environment in which "all the elements of the farm can live dynamically and with vitality."  Their holistic, environment-conscious methods include complementary farming practices that create wildlife corridors, leave landscapes untouched, and remove invasive species in order to give native plants a chance to take root. 

Like their vineyards, Cowhorn's winery is also Demeter Certified.  Gentle guidance is the word here,  meaning minimal use of intervention such as manipulation, chemicals, additives, or other ingredients.  The grapes are allowed to develop into wine as naturally as possible using only indigenous yeasts, of which readers of this blog know I am a huge fan. 

Cowhorn's commitment to these holistic farming and gentle wine making practices has been rewarded with wines that have already drawn impressive accolades from the likes of Wines Spectator and Wine Enthusiast.  As for me, spring cannot arrive too soon, as I cannot wait to make my way to southern Oregon to visit the vineyards and wineries of the Rogue and Applegate valleys.  Cowhorn Vineyards will most definitely be at the top of my list of vineyards to visit on that trip.  Reports to follow in only a few short months!

Summer 2010 Tour of Clos Pepe

It's no secret that I am a huge fan of the California Central Coast and it's characterful wines.  I have been lucky to travel though Central Coast wine country on several occasions, tasting many lovely wines and soaking in the incredible old California ambiance and natural beauty.  One of those memorable trips occurred last summer when I had the special privilege to take part in one of the last tours offered at Clos Pepe Vineyards in the Santa Rita Hills. The extremely personable Wes Hagen, vineyard manager and the estate's winemaker, was a font of knowledge as he led the group from the vineyards, through the wine-making process, to a memorable private tasting in the estate's main house.  Wes even took time to personally put together a local cheese and bread platter as he answered the group's questions and poured several delicious wines. To top off an amazing morning, we were treated to the fruits of another of  Wes' great passions; his freshly brewed, home roasted expresso.

I absolutely fell in love with the beautiful vineyard setting with meticulously kept vines, olive groves, and even a picturesque little heard of sheep which are an integral part of the bio-intensive vineyard culture.  Eve more impressive were the wines.  We tasted two vintages of exquisitely crafted, bright, crisp, Burgundy style Chardonnay, one of them an unfiltered barrel sample.  Quite the treat.  Then came the lovely Pinot Noirs, with their characteristic Santa Rita Hills raspberry and cherry aromas backed by a hint of Central Coast herbalness. These were juicy Pinot Noirs, quite drinkable in their youth, but with Burgundy-like earthy complexity and the backbone to develop nicely for several years in the bottle.  Clos Pepe wines are a great testament to what can happen when an incredibly talented winemaker's skills combine with low-yields, organic/sustainable practices, and meticulous hand-labor in the vineyard.  

Sadly, Clos Pepe no longer offeres tours of their beautiful estates, but their wonderful wines are available online on clospepe.com and in wine shops for your enjoyment.  I heartily recommend seeking them out.  In the meantime here are some photos from my memorable 2010 tour, so you too can experience some of the beauty of this incredible estate.

R. Lopez de Heredia 2000 Viña Gravonia

In 1877 Rafael Lopez de Heredia y Landeta came to the Rioja region in Spain from Chile to follow his dream of making wine.  At the time, the wine business in the Rioja was booming, as the phylloxera epidemic drove Bordeaux producers there to seek alternate sources for quality grapes.  Lopez de Heredia began experimenting with a wide range of Spanish and Bordeaux varieties, finally determining that the traditional Tempranillo and Viura were the most appropriate grapes for top quality wine production in Rioja.  In 1913 he purchased a parcel of land that became the vineyards of Lopez de Heredia Tondonia, established one of the first Bodegas in Rioja, and began a wine making heritage based on strict quality.  Three generations later Lopez de Heredia's great-grand  children carry on his dream by making wines very much in the same traditional way.  These are old-style Rioja wines that emphasize extreme care in the vineyard in order to produce the highest quality grapes possible, and very traditional vinification in the cellar.  

Harvesting is done meticulously by hand, bunch by bunch, and grapes are brought to the winery in small wooden containers that are handcrafted in the estate's own cooperage.  After natural yeast fermentation, the wines are aged a minimum of four years in 225 liter hand-crafted American oak barrels.  This long aging period, which varies with each wine's natural development, allows them to undergo the slow esterification process needed to develop the classic and complex bouquets of great traditional style Rioja wines.  During this aging process the wines are gently and laboriously hand-racked to remove impurities without having to resort to mechanical filtering.  The wines then continue to age in bottle until deemed ready for release.  

The resulting wines are anything but the modern fruit and oak bombs many modern Rioja wines have become. These are contemplative wines of restraint, elegance, and nuance.  They offer the kinds of earthy complexity that made me fall in love with traditional Spanish wines years ago.  Thanks to Lopez de Heredia's dedication to tradition we can still enjoy this uniquely wonderful style of wine.  We can only hope the tradition will continue for generations to come. 

The wine we will taste today is made from grapes from the Viña Zaconia vineards, one of the original parcels purchesd by Rafael Lopez de Heredia y Landeta.  The 45 year old Viura vines are situated on south-facing slopes of poor, stony soil, which forces the roots to go deep, developing great character and complexity in the grapes.  This is the stuff I live for, so come along as I taste this exciting traditional white wine from the Rioja region.  

Frog's Leap - "Time's Fun When You're Having Flies"

I must confess I am a bit out of fashion when it comes to video gaming.  It's just not really my thing.  Part of that may just be that I don't really have scads of spare time to sit in front of the flat-panel with a controller for hours at a time, and part of it may be that I grew up in an era where board games were still the primary form of mindless entertainment.  In a way it actually makes me a bit uneasy to enter what can be a pretty stressful virtual world just to escape the stresses of the real one.  So when I spend time indoors with my kids on rainy days, apart form the occasional foray into Wii Sports, we still play those simple old board games like Monopoly, Clue, and Life.  I guess part of their attraction is that they allow me to bring back some of  the happier, comforting memories of my childhood.  I also like that they offer the opportunity for direct interaction with other players, which I almost always prefer to staring intently at a TV screen hoping no one interrupts my concentration.

Where am I going with this jabber anyway?  Oh yeah, web-sites!  Fun, interactive web-sites.  Web-sites that keep me entertained while they inform.  Web sites that have the feel of a board game, that let me do fun stuff to get my info.  So, when I run across a winery's web site that has that kind of feel, I get really excited.  If you read my Bonny Doon Vineyards profile Of Flying Cigars and Terroirs back in August, you already know that I got pretty excited about their fun little site.  I really didn't think another winery could top what Randall Graham and his creative team put together, but I think I have finally found a web-site that comes close, if not equals it.  In fact, as was doing my research for today's producer profile of Frog's Leap Winery in Napa Valley, I was so captivated by their clever web-site, that I have decided to simply post their link here, so you can have some fun while you learn.  So just do the clickedy-click below and find out more about this wonderful, organic, and eco-friendly Napa Valley producer and their wines.  For quick reference I have also posted a few highlights and informative videos.  Enjoy!

Frog's Leap Winery  (Link)

• Company Motto - "Time's Fun When You're Having Flies"

• Location: Napa Valley, Rutherford appellation

• 40 Acres organically grown estate vineyards.  Frog's Leap owns an additional 88 acres and farms another 100 acres in Rutherford.

• Organic pracitices emphasize health of soil and traditional farming methods including use of cover crops, complementary crops, and dry-farming.

• Winemaker - John Williams - Masters in Viticulture and Enology UC Davis
• The name Frog's Leap inspired by John's first wine-making gig at Stag's Leap
• Annual production: 60,000 cases

• Wines:
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Chardonnay
• Merlot
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Zinfandel
• Rutherford (Cab Sauvignon/Cab Franc blend)
• Petite Syrah
• Pink (Zinfandel/Valdiquie blend)
• Frogenbeerenauslese (Late Harvest Riesling)

• Wine-making philosophy:  Minimal handling, terroir-driven.  Use of Natural Yeasts.

• Committed to Sustainability
• LEED Certified
• 100% Photovoltaic and Geo-thermal energy
• Dry Farming
• Ratings:
• 2010 Sauvignon Blanc  (93)  Wine & Spirits
• 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon  (94)  Wine & Spirits
• 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon  (92 )  Wine & Spirits
• 2007 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon  (91)  Wine Enthusiast
• 2008 Zinfandel  (91)  Wine Enthusiast

Frog's Leap Vids:

Chateau Pontet-Canet - Pioneering Biodynamics in Bordeaux

Biodynamic wine from a top Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe Chateau...is it possible?  Not a common phenomenon among the large estates of Bordeaux, but one whose coming, given the proliferation and success of biodynamics in other regions of France and around the world, was inevitable.  Chateau Pontet-Canet has boldly, if quietly, taken the lead in biodynamic viticulture in Bordeaux, a smart move in my estimation.  There is little doubt in my mind that the current generation of wine-drinkers will continue to gravitate towards both the terroir-driven style and chemical-free, eco-friendly ideology of natural wines, and producers who fail to get on board with these trends may find themselves with some serious catching up to do.

Pontet-Canet has quite an interesting recent history, having been somewhat relegated to the margins of classified growth Bordeaux in the early seventies due to lackluster quality, and a scandal involving the blending of inexpensive Rioja with the estate's wines.  In 1975, following the conviction of then owner Henri Cruse in the blending scandal,  Cognac merchant Guy Tesseron purchased the estate.  Tesseron's son Alfred soon began to make his mark in the vineyard, introducing quality-enhancing practices such as green harvesting and sorting, and eventually giving up the use of chemical herbicides and pesticides.  In 1993 Alfred Tesseron took over management of the estate and under his guidance quality has improved steadily since then.

In 2004 Tesseron made the bold decision to entrust the direction of the estate to his technical director Jean-Michel Comme, based largely on the success Comme had achieved with biodynamic practices in his own estate, Champs des Trailles.  Under Comme's direction Pontet-Canet began the conversion to biodynamics in 2004, and since 2010 Pontet-Canet has been fully biodynamically certified.  Tesseron does not pretentiously advertise the estate's biodynamic certification, preferring to let the quality of his wines do the talking.   But his genuine motivation in treating the soil and vines with respect is evidenced by such retro-revolutionary practices as shifting to the use of horses for cultivation of the 200 acre estate.  The idea is that horses allow cultivation of the soil without the compacting force exerted by tractors, thus allowing the roots to do their work better.

Uncompromising respect for the fruit and attention to quality continues in the harvesting process, where grapes go directly from the vines to sorting tables via small crates, keeping grapes unbruised and uncrushed.  Respect at harvest time is further afforded the harvest workers who are paid a fair salary rather than the customary piece rates.  As the fruit continues its journey to vinification, sorting is extremely careful and labor intensive, employing 30 workers, to ensure only the ripest, healthiest grapes make it to the fermenting vats.

The grapes are then moved to Pontet-Canet's state-of-the-art oak and cement vat rooms by gravity, without pumping, and only natural yeasts are used in the slow fermentation process to facilitate a long and gentle extraction of tannins.  After about four weeks of maceration, the wine is run off directly into barrels and aged for sixteen to twenty months.  About 60% of barrels are new.  The estate also produces a second wine, Hauts de Pontet-Canet.

So, has Pontet-Canet's Pioneering move to biodynamics paid off when it comes to quality?  To answer that question let's look at prominent wine publications' scores for the past two vintages:

2010 - 100 Wine Advocate, 99 Wine Spectator, 98 Wine Enthusiast
2009 - 100 Wine Advocate, 100 Wine Enthusiast, 98 Wine Spectator

These are scores that look a lot like ones usually associated with first and second growth estates, so not too shabby for a fifth growth estate that was resurrected from mediocrity in the not too distant past.  Chateau Pontet-Canet's success with biodynamics is just another piece of evidence for me that practices which focus first and foremost on respect for nature, for the terroir, and for the vines, are the wave of the future, and not a passing fad.  If it is starting to happen in the venerable estates of Bordeaux, it will undoubtedly continue to happen there and wherever else great wine is made.