November 16, 2011

Cowhorn Vineyards

Could there be a more idyllic setting for a vineyard than this?  I think not.  If there are two things I'm a sucker for it's a great undiscovered wine region discovered, and great wines that come from them; wines that are unique and real and speak of the land, the soil, and the people who grow and make them.  So when I discovered that there is actually more to Oregon wine than Willamette Valley and the great Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay grown there, and that it involves the beautifully rugged southern Oregon Rogue and  Applegate valleys, I was naturally excited.  When I found out that really, really good naturally produced Rhone varietals and Rhone blends are produced there, I knew I had found a new Nirvana.  

So, where will my next wine excursion take me?  Yes, you guessed it...southern Oregon, and my first stop will be Cowhorn Vineyards, an amazing Demter certified Biodynamic producer in Appleagate valley.  What makes this incredible little corner of the Pacific Northwest so perfect for wine growing, and my next wine trip?  First of all, beautiful mountains, forests, rivers,  and scenery to provide the perfect backdrop.  Second, a great hospitality scene with world class cuisine, entertainment, and charming bed and breakfasts.  And, most importantly, ideal grape-growing conditions for an amazing array of  both cool and warm climate varietals.

Cowhorn Vineyards is located about as far south as the incredible southern Oregon countryside extends, in a ralatively dry climate zone with warm days and cool nights, creating the perfect conditions in which to grow the classic Rhone varietals Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne, as well as some wonderful warm climate Sauvignon Blanc.


Bill and Barbara Steele purchased the property that is now Cowhorn Vineyards in 2002, extensively tested the soil, water-holding capacity, and natural water availability, and by 2004 had put together a masterplan for their polyculture gardens and vineyards, relying on Biodynamic and Organic practices, which now includes farming of asparagus and an array of other crops such as artichokes, pumpkins, squash, apples, pears, and hazelnuts.  I love the first vision statement the Steeles wrote for Cowhorn from which their dreams and plans grew.

"There must be a Creator and she loves art!  Why else would the Earth be so beautiful? The Earth is also powerful and diverse; complicated, forgiving and patient; wise.  She buries our mistakes, grows our successes; endlessly challenges our creativity and ability, always rewards us with vision and beauty! The extraordinary intellect of the mind is matched by the extraordinary complexity of the Earth. We can protect the Earth by creating spaces that let its energies expand and flourish. The Earth needs strong spaces to balance those parts that have been weakened."
I love this statement because it speaks of the respect the Steeles have for the Earth and its creative powers, and of the importance of working together with her as her stewards.  This philosophy is put into practice in Cowhorn's vineyards in the form of Biodynamically based, labor-intensive tillage and canopy management programs, providing an environment in which "all the elements of the farm can live dynamically and with vitality."  Their holistic, environment-conscious methods include complementary farming practices that create wildlife corridors, leave landscapes untouched, and remove invasive species in order to give native plants a chance to take root. 

Like their vineyards, Cowhorn's winery is also Demeter Certified.  Gentle guidance is the word here,  meaning minimal use of intervention such as manipulation, chemicals, additives, or other ingredients.  The grapes are allowed to develop into wine as naturally as possible using only indigenous yeasts, of which readers of this blog know I am a huge fan. 

Cowhorn's commitment to these holistic farming and gentle wine making practices has been rewarded with wines that have already drawn impressive accolades from the likes of Wines Spectator and Wine Enthusiast.  As for me, spring cannot arrive too soon, as I cannot wait to make my way to southern Oregon to visit the vineyards and wineries of the Rogue and Applegate valleys.  Cowhorn Vineyards will most definitely be at the top of my list of vineyards to visit on that trip.  Reports to follow in only a few short months!

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