January 17, 2012

Antiyal: Pioneering Biodynamic Wine of Chile



Antiyal:  Mapudungun (language of Chile's native Mapuche) for "sons of the sun."  Antiyal was founded in 1996 by winemaker Alvaro Espinoza and his wife Marina Ashton with the idea of teaching their children and anyone else who would listen, about the Earth, work, and wine.  Soon this little family vineyard project blossomed into a full-on 19,000 bottle a year winery with wines garnering rave reviews.  So much for a small family vineyard project.  Alvaro Espinoza is a highly regarded winemaker in Chile.  Considered a pioneer in Biodynamic and Organic farming, he is still very much in demand among other wine makers for his grape growing and wine making knowledge, leaving Marina to guide the winery's day-to-day operations.

Often referred to as the original 'garage winery' in Chile, Antiyal is now a modest-sized winery that prides itself on it's high quality standards.  Antiyal and it's sister brand Kuyen (moon in Mapudungun) are apt monikers for these Biodynamically produced wines, evoking the ancient Mapuche civilization's respect for the Earth and its ties to the cosmos.  Alvaro's vineyards embody these ancient principles of respect for nature through planting of flowers (lots of Poppies...my favorite) between rows of vines to attract beneficial insects, and chickens scratching the soil to get rid of bad ones such as mites.  This respect also extends to vineyard work being done by horse-drawn plows cultivating the soil instead of tractor-mounted equipment.  In accordance with Biodynamic practices, harvest and training of vines is timed to the rhythm of the moon and stars.  Alvaro employs organic and Biodynamic methods because he belives they lend his wines more genuine flavors with a stronger sense of place.  Apart from this commitment to quality he wants to leave his vineyards in better shape for future generations.

Alvaro believes in 'planting vigor row by row' by using very little irrigation or canopy management.  Organic farm-produced composts and manures provide nutrition to a healthy, balance vineyard.  Of course, Antiyal's vineyards have the enviable advantage of being located in the Maipo valley, with its almost rain-free conditions, requiring little or no spraying of systemic chemicals.  I have always thought that South America has somewhat of an unfair advantage in that area, but it is an advantage that should be welcome and exploited by far more Chilean and Argentinian producers.  What little water that is used in irrigation consists of pure snow-melt form the Andes mountains, contributing another advantage to the quality of Antiyal's grapes.  Furthermore, the Humboldt Current-influenced climate provides cool temperatures both morning and night, ensuring that the grapes retain their natural acidity, yielding rich, mature fruit that doesn't devolve to flabby jamminess.

Wines produced and accolades:

Antiyal is a blend of Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.  Stephen Tanzer awarded the 2007 vintage of this wine 92+ points, pointing out its perfumed aromas of blackberry and cherry preserves and smoky herbs, complemented by cracked pepper, cinnamon, and a kiss of candied flowers.

The same vintage of Kuyen, a blend of Syrah and Cabernet, received 91 points from Tanzer, showing dark berry flavors complemented by subtle spicy oak, licorice, and zesty minerality.

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