Paul Dolan

Hmmm...Moon phase is a waxing crescent.  I wonder what that portends for my activities tonight?  I think I'll consult a biodynamic calendar.  Now, where did I last see my biodynamic calendar?  Can't...seem...to...find...it...anywhere.  Oh well, best log on to Paul Dolan Vineyards web-site.  Ah, here it is:  Fruit day, and, oh what luck...a favorable day to taste wine!

Well, I just happen to have a bottle of Parducci 2009 Pinot Noir (coincidentally enough produced by one of Paul Dolan's labels) right here.  Who's to argue with the Bilodynamic calendar?  Ah, not bad.  A surprisingly delicate Pinot Noir-like character.  Nice red fruit with a hint of vanilla and smoke.  Not bad for a $14.00 bottle of Pinot Noir.  But then, I have rarely been disappointed by any of the modestly priced, sustainably produced Parducci wines.

Since we are on the subject I might as well tell you all a little about Paul Dolan, the mastermind behind the Parducci empire.  Super green and sustainably produced Parducci wines are just one child in Dolan's corporate family.  But before I introduce the rest of the clan, let me back up a little.  Paul Dolan grew up with wine in his blood with Rossi and Concannon family connections.  It was, in fact, his winemaker uncle Ed Rossi who in the early 70's inspired Dolan to write a paper on the wine industry as part of his college business and finance curriculum.  This look back into his family legacy was enough to cement Dolan's move towards winemaking and in 1975 he enrolled in the Enology program at Cal State University, Fresno.  From there he went on to make wine for Fetzer, where he worked for 27 years, including 12 as president.  With Dolan at the helm Fetzer became a leader in organic viticulture and sustainable business practices; two principles that continue to be central in all of Dolan's ventures.

His commitment to not only grow grapes and make wines sustainably, but to run his business sustainably is one thing I love about Paul Dolan.  The man is firmly committed to a holistic business concept which has as a central tenet that the progress and wealth business creates will still be there for future generations.   Dolan believes that in such a business model economic profit cannot be the only measure of success.  To codify this concept he has initiated his e3 action plan which is shorthand for a "tripple bottom line," consisting of economics, environment, and social equity.  Here are Dolan's views on sustainable business summed up in his own words:

A sustainable business should be a whole business, like a whole person.  It must have integrity.  It must have a moral center.  It must be connected to its values and the greater world.  It must aspire to do what is right, not just for the bottom line, not just from a legal standpoint, but from a moral and ethical standpoint.  It’s not only accountable, it’s responsible.  


When winemakers are serious about this kind of a holistic business philosophy underlying their work in the vineyard and winery, it inspires confidence in me that their aim in choosing sustainable paractices is more than just a fashion statement, and truly part of a commitment to produce the best wine possible.
In 2004 Dolan Partnered with like-minded Tim and Tom Thornhill to form the Mendocino Wine Company, parent to their current range of brands headed by Parducci, their original 2004 acquisition.  Under Dolan and the Thornhills Parducci has come to represent the pinnacle of sustainable practice, priding itself on being the first carbon neutral winery.  The winery relies 100% on green power in including solar energy.  There is also a huge emphasis on water conservancy and wetlands conservation, as well as earth friendly packaging.

This firm commitment to sustainability also carries over to the grapes which are grown in the estate's own 100% organically certified vineyards, as well as sourced from locally owned family farms.  All partner vineyards are also certified either Biodynamic, Organic, or Fish Friendly.  In the vineyards there is no use of chemical soil amendments, weed control, or pesticides.  This includes the use of wildlife corridors which encourage natural predators, and bug farms to attract beneficial insects.  Cover crops are grown between vines to enrich the vineyard and prevent erosion.  Dolan's practices in general avoid any practices which harm the environment or deplete the soil, including bioengeneering, ionizing radiation, or GMOs.

Besides Parducci, MWC's family of wines includes the smaller labels, Zig Zag Zin, Sketchbook, and Wines That Rock.  But you might say that Dolan's favorite child is the eponymously named Paul Dolan Vineyards, the company's premium biodynamic and organic label.  The label illustration alone, three cow's horns forming a circle, should tell you something about Dolan's commitment to biodynamic principles.  So, of course, should the inclusion of the aforementioned Biodynamic Calendar on the label's web-site, which has so recently come to my rescue.  Paul Dolan Vineyards produces organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Zinfandel.  But the star of this show would seem to be Deep Red, a unique blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, and Zinfandel.  Deep Red is somewhat of a pet project for Dolan, made from estate grapes grown in the Dark Horse Vineyard, planted on an old family property.  You could say the Demeter certified Biodynamic Deep Red represents the acme of his dream to create a wine that represents the "unique expression of a carefully nurtured piece of land."

I have to confess, I haven't had too many opportunities to enjoy Paul Dolan's wines outside of the Parducci label.  I do have quite a favorable impression though of the Paul Dolan Vineyards Chardonnay which I tasted last summer, if memory serves me right.  Which, of course, means that I have some tasting homework ahead of me.  Alas, what a grueling responsibility!

I hope you have found reading about Paul Dolan as interesting as I have researching and writing about him.  Now go out and taste his wines and let us know what you think by posting a comment.  That little window at the bottom of the page is all yours for bearing your wine-loving soul...so go for it!

Starting Friday, and over the next 10 days I will be posting a series of short one to two minute videos which feature Paul Dolan outlinging the basic concpets of Biodynamics.  Very interesting and concise primer on Biodynamics.  So come back and check it out!