Alois Lageder

Where does any corner of the World get off having fabulously eye-soothing hill-side vineyards amongst a backdrop of absolutely mind-blowing alpine scenery?  It seems almost a natural impossibility for word-class wine grapes to be growing in profusion among high alpine woodlands and meadows.  Yet, there they are, backed by the majestically craggy Dolomite mountain range; vineyards covering the unexpectedly warm valley floors and hillsides flanking the Adige and Isarco rivers in this northernmost region of Italy.  Not only is Alto Adige the extreme north geographically, but also culturally, having been part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire up to it's annexation by Italy in 1919.  The Germanic heritage of this little slice of heaven is evidenced by the fact that German is still the principal language spoken in most of the region, and is just as obvious in the area's culinary leanings.  Dishes here have a distinctly Austrian bent, featuring delectable smoked and cured pork products such as speck, both sweet and savory dumplings, a variety of sausages, and sauerkraut; foods that sound like the perfect candidates for crisp, fragrant dry white wines.

Which brings me to another question.  Where does any wine region get off offering such a compelling excuse to drink Pinot Grigio, which when grown anywhere else can be rather one-dimensional if not banal.  Here in the Alto Adige, however, it can make densely perfumed, smoky, racy wines of exceptional delicacy and elegance, rivaled in my view only by the Pinot Gris of Alsace.  I remember last summer taking part in many a poolside party and backyard barbeque inevitably flowing with the ubiquitous lean, vaguely peachy California Pinot Grigio, until one day I couldn't take it any more and headed to my favorite wine store in hopes of reassuring myself that somewhere in the world someone was still making interesting wine from this grape.  Aided by a bit of prior research I picked one of about a dozen prospective bottles, which happened to be the 2008 release of Alois Lageder Alto Adige Pinot Grigio.  That night a friend and I opended and sipped what was a reassuringly aromatic wine with alluring floral, spice and stone fruit aromas, bracing acidity, some delicate mountain herb notes and taught supporting minerality all at a very decent value.  Thank you Alois Lageder for restoring my faith in an entire grape variety!

Alois Lageder is a five generation family owned producer who pride themselves on their high standards in winemaking and what they call a sustainable, holistic corporate philosophy that adds back to the community more than just good wine.  Founded in 1823 by Johann Lageder on the outskirts of Bolzano, Lageder now produces a wide range of Biodynamic wines from carefully selected vineyard sites throughout Alto Adige under their Tenutae Lageder label, as well as the wines made principally from sustainably produced grapes sourced from other trusted local growers under the Alois Lageder label.  

Lageder's commitment to holistec practices begins in the vineyard and winery by ensuring the grapes that go into their wines are healthy and fully ripened, expressing the unique characteristics of each vineyard site.  In the winery they see themselves not so much as wine makers, but as "midwives who facilitate the birth of wines of great elegance, clarity, body, strenght, and authenticity.  Each wine, they insist, must tell a story: a story of the vineyard site where the grapes were grown, and a story of the human beings who were their caretakers.  

Equally impressive is Alois Lageder's extension of a holistic philosophy outside of the vineyard and winery.  Their efforts to promote ecological awareness, and support of arts, cultural, and music projects not only add back energy and life to the larger environment, but are also informed by a belief that all these activities synergistically enhance the enjoyment of wine.

As laudable as all this is let's return to our main focus here which, of course, are the wines.  Lageder offeres a wide range of varietal and single vineyard wines from both labels.  In addition to the already mentioned Pinot Grigio, the Alois Lageder label features wines made from Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muller Thurgau.  On the red side of the isle are the regional specialties Lagrein and Grauvernatsch, as well as Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Wheeew..qhite the list!  The label also features single vineyard offerings of Riesling, Moscato Giallo, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay-Sauvignon blend, and the very local red variety St. Magdalener.  The wines bearing the Tenutae Lageder label include Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir, Lagrein, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a number of interesting varietal blends.

Alois Lageders wines consistently garner excellent reviews and are definitely a star in the ever expanding firmament of naturally produced wines.  I encourage anyone who loves interesting wine to seek them out, drink them, and then share your experience so we may all be a little richer for it.