I conducted a wine palate expanding experience last Saturday night, and as with most of my wine education events, the participants blind-tasted a number of new and less common wines. I picked six wines, of which I had tasted only one in the past, and that one from a different vintage. This allows me to go into the tasting without prejudice, and to be on somewhat equal footing with the other participants as we discuss our sensory experiences. I was glad to discover that all the wines we tasted were quite good, five of the six were candidates for repeat performances, and four were actually quite exciting. Five of the wines we tasted were so drinkable, in fact, that I feel compelled to share my tasting notes with you today, so perhaps you will be inspired to seek them out and add them to your drinking repertoire. All the wines reviewed below are also very much terroir-driven, if not naturally produced. I have indicated Biodynamic, Organic, and Sustainable practices next to the wine names. The Whites
Racy wine with good chalky minerality, if somewhat lean on the palate. Very much a Gruner in character. This would be the quintessential all-around food wine. I found delicate peach and honey on the nose backed by some freshly mown hay, some field herbs, and a lemony crisp acidity on the tongue. A sprinkle of cinnamon and clove lent a bit of nuance to an otherwise straight-forward profile. 87 Points
If there was an undisputed star of the show Saturday night, this was probably it. What a great big beautiful white from Mendoza! Sustainably produced using only indigenous yests, powerful, and delicious. Everybody, even the hard-bitten red wine drinkers, loved this one. The best expression of Torrontes I have tasted to date, with just a splash of Viognier to add some heady floral and tropical undertones. But, when I first dipped my nose over the rim, my senses were accosted by an almost supernatural aroma of apple and pear cider. I felt like I had been transported to a cider cellar in Normandy. Extremely alluring already, the nose just continued to show more and more as it warmed with Asian spices such as star anise and cardamom, and the super-well integrated structure made this wine a true sensory pleasure in the mouth. 92 Points
3. Domaine Giachino 2008 Abymes Monfraina $13.99 *Biodynamic*We really hit the jackpot with two outstanding whites, this one coming in a close second to the Torrontes. Produced Biodynamically from the Jacquere grape, this lovely wine from a beautiful Savoie region of eastern France, immediately showed off it's extended ageing on the lees with warm caramel apple dipped in freshly churned sour cream, some
pungent mountain cheese rind, alpine herbs, and mouthfuls of gravely granite minerality. This would pair wonderfully with the great artisanal cheeses and charcuterie of the Haute-Savoie.
91 Points
The Reds
Argentina was well represented in this tasting with the excellent Torrontes, and then this wonderful little Bonarda. What an incredibly underrated grape! It's nice to see this variety experience a bit of a revival in California of late under it's more appropriate handle Charbono. It is, of course, not the true Bonarda of Piemonte, which produces rather light fruity house wines, but the Douce Noire of the Savoie, a grape which produces much more interesting and structured wines. We thoroughly enjoyed this budget-basement priced (picked up on sale for $8.99) red. The nose showed enticing aromas of red plums and cherries, some black currant, and dense aromas of dried red fruit. Both the nose and palate were perfectly seasoned with black pepper and green pepper seeds. This is an unoaked wine which allows incredible fruit character to shine through the great acidity and well-integrated, pleasant tannic bite. Perfect wine with flavorful pizzas and pastas, but substantial enough to stand up to grilled meats and hearty stews. 90 Points
The hot, dry, rocky soils of the Seewinkel of Burgenland in the lowlands of eastern Austria may be the best-kept secret among all the world's red wine terroirs, and this exceptional red is proof positive. This was the undisputed red wine audience favorite at the tasting. Zantho prides itself in creating wines from indigenous Austrian grape varieties, which offer true expressions of terroir. To this end they employ extremely high
quality measures in the vineyard and gentle handling of the fruit in the winery. When we tasted this wine it showed exceptional complexity and finesse for a wine in its price range. The soft, almost velvety texture enveloped elegant expressions of black raspberry and spiced blue plum confection mingling with hints of wild mushroom, rose petal, tobacco leaf and pine resin. This is one to drink with flavorful wild boar or other game stews. 91 Points
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